The theme of February is exfoliation, an important part of skincare.
Why is exfoliation good for your skin? What does exfoliation achieve? How do you choose the right acid-based product for yourself? Are enzymatic exfoliators better for sensitive skin? Why Should You Exfoliate?
Exfoliation refers to the shedding or removal of dead skin cells. Your skin naturally exfoliates every two weeks as part of its regular renewal process. However, this process can slow down due to aging, hormonal changes, or dehydration. As a result, skin thickens, pores become clogged, blemishes appear, and the complexion looks dull with more visible wrinkles. To counteract this, you should occasionally boost exfoliation to promote faster skin renewal and maintain a smooth, radiant appearance. In short, it’s time for a cosmetic exfoliator.
MECHANICAL OR CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION?
- Mechanical (physical) exfoliation removes dead surface cells using brushes, gloves, sponges, or products with particles like salt, ground seeds, or hydrogenated oils.
- Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients that dissolve the "cement" binding skin cells together, providing a more even result than cmechanical methods. Chemical exfoliators also offer additional benefits like boosting skin renewal or hydration, making them more versatile.
MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION: METHODS AND PRODUCTS
The downside of mechanical exfoliation is the risk of over-scrubbing or applying too much pressure, which can irritate or even damage the skin. Avoid mechanical exfoliation on sensitive skin. Recommended products and methods:
Cosmetic exfoliators: Contain exfoliating particles.
- For the face: Particles like jojoba beads or finely ground volcanic stone.
- For the body: Coarser particles like salt, sugar, or ground apricot kernels.
Sponges and gloves: Konjac sponges, cotton or microfiber gloves can be used with water or cleansing balms and gels.
Brushes: Rotating or manual brushes should be used as directed. Suggestion:
Darphin Age-Defying Dermoabrasion: A professional-grade treatment with pearl powder, silica, and volcanic stone for perfectly polished skin.
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION: HOW TO CHOOSE?
The most common chemical exfoliants are acids—alpha, beta, and polyhydroxy acids—and enzymes.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid help exfoliate, accelerate skin renewal, and reduce wrinkles and discoloration. Glycolic acid: Has the smallest molecules and penetrates the deepest, but may cause irritation. Typical concentrations for home use are 5-10%. Important: AHAs increase skin sensitivity to sunlight. Use only in the evening and always apply sunscreen during the day and for one to two weeks after stopping use.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Salicylic acid dissolves in oil, clears pores, and has antibacterial properties—ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are gentle and suitable for sensitive skin, providing added hydration.
Product suggestions for daily care:
Royal Fern Phytoactive Perfecting Essence: With PHAs and a blend of mandelic and lactic acid.
Malin+Goetz Glycolic Pads: Cotton pads soaked in 10% glycolic acid, ideal for use before bed.
The Ordinary: Toners with glycolic, lactic, or mandelic acid, tailored to skin sensitivity.
Home exfoliation recommendation:
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution: A powerful weekly exfoliant, use for a maximum of 10 minutes.
ENZYMES: FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
Enzymes from pineapple, papaya, or pumpkin break down proteins that hold dead skin cells on the surface, working gently without requiring an acidic environment. Suggestions:
Auteur Enzyme Cleanser: Combines enzymes, AHAs, vitamin C, ectoin, and niacinamide for daily use.
Susanne Kaufmann Enzyme Exfoliator: With apple enzymes, ectoin, and vitamin C for radiant skin; use once a week.
THREE GOLDEN RULES OF EXFOLIATION
1. Less is more—avoid overuse of high concentrations or frequent application.
2. Start with low concentrations and infrequent use (e.g., twice a week).
3. Sunscreen is essential during acid use and for several weeks after stopping.
