Everything You Need to Know About Sun Protection Product Labels
The three-letter acronym – SPF – is all over posts, blogs, and packaging of cosmetic products. It's become part of our everyday speech. “Never without SPF” is the advice from dermatologists. It has become our go-to phrase when talking about sun protection.
“Sun Protection Factor” or SPF, however, is an incomplete term. Since its introduction, it has meant only one thing: protection against UVB rays. With SPF, you won’t get sunburned.
Then we learned about UVA rays, which penetrate deeper and cause more insidious damage, invisibly and without redness. Chemists began to work on creating new filters to protect against both types of rays. The sun was shining harder. Dermatologists warned more frequently. We discovered that there are physical and chemical filters.
Along with the SPF and UVA labels we have somewhat mastered, PA+ labels emerged, with varying numbers of plus signs. So, what now? We decided to offer you a brief guide through sunscreen products and the labels that confuse us. A little “cheat sheet” for summer care.
SUN PROTECTION DICTIONARY
UVB and UVA – Scientists are still not entirely sure how the interplay of these UV rays affects the skin, but they are certain that each organism reacts differently. Simply put, UVB is most commonly associated with redness and burns (B for “burn”), while UVA is associated with skin aging (A for “aging” as it affects skin laxity and spot formation). Both can cause carcinogenic changes in the skin (DNA mutations). SPF indicates the level of protection against UVB rays, while “UVA,” “PA+,” or the label “broad spectrum” denotes UVA protection (depending on the region from which the brand originates).
SPF – the label for UVB protection. In Europe, SPF 50+ is the highest permitted label. SPF 50+ allows only 2% of UVB rays to penetrate if applied correctly.
UVA – the letters enclosed in a circle denote UVA protection in Europe and Australia. The protection level (factor) must be at least one-third of the stated SPF value. In other words, when SPF is 30, the UVA factor must be at least 10 (though it is not indicated numerically). Why make it simple…
PA+ – UVA protection in cosmetics from Korea, Japan, and other Asian countries (also found in Europe). PA+ corresponds to UVA factors of 2–4 (very low protection), PA++ corresponds to UVA 4–8, PA+++ corresponds to UVA 8-16, PA++++ means UVA 16 or more (highest protection, stopping 93% of UVA rays).
BROAD SPECTRUM – a term commonly used in America for products that provide both UVB and UVA protection.
FACTOR – a number indicating the strength of protection – or protective factor, measured “in vivo” (on human skin) by comparing the time you can spend in the sun before your skin tans or burns, without protection and with protection. So, if you burn (or tan) without protection after 10 minutes, with a protective factor of 10, you would only burn after 100 minutes.
WATER RESISTANCE – “Waterproof” means that the product provides protection even while swimming, not dissolving in water. However, this does not mean it won’t be removed through friction (against water, towels, or clothing). Waterproof products should also be reapplied after swimming and 2-3 hours after the previous application. “Waterproof” products will be effective for 40 minutes in water, while “very waterproof” ones will last twice as long.
PPD – a term you will find in discussions about factors. “Persistent Pigment Darkening” is a method for measuring UVA protection.
SPF 50+ is established as the highest label that can appear on a product by European standards. However, on some products from America, you will find SPF 100. It protects against 99% of UVB rays and is only one percent stronger than SPF 50, so don’t be fooled.
BLUE LIGHT – protection from blue light from screens, which can cause accelerated skin aging.
MINERAL (PHYSICAL) FILTERS – filters that reflect sunlight like a mirror. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the two most commonly used filters. They typically leave a “white cast” on the skin due to the concentration of these substances necessary to achieve high protection. The process of micronization allows for a much lighter texture (for example, Malin+Goetz SPF 30 mineral sunscreen). Since the skin does not absorb them, they are much better tolerated, which is why they are always recommended for the protection of babies and children, or people with sensitive skin. They are also the only filters permitted in natural cosmetics.
BIOLOGICAL (CHEMICAL, ORGANIC) FILTERS – three names for the same thing: UV filters that absorb sunlight and thus prevent its penetration into the skin. During this process, these chemical substances undergo a change and lose their properties, so the product needs to be reapplied every two to three hours. Additionally, these filters are fully absorbed into the skin, so they must be applied at least 20 minutes before sun exposure. And no, “organic” in this case doesn’t mean they were grown without pesticides. :)
PHOTOSENSITIVITY – increased sensitivity of the skin when exposed to UV rays (either from the sun or UV lamps). Photosensitivity can be triggered by certain medications (read the instructions!), as well as some ingredients in cosmetics (acids, for example). There are two types of reactions: phototoxic, which manifests as redness or itching, occurring about an hour after sun exposure; photoallergic reactions occur as a rash and can appear 1-3 days after sun exposure.
PHOTOSTABILITY means that the ingredients are resistant to UV rays and do not degrade during sun exposure (this is how UV filters should behave).
SUN LABEL – ☀ (from 1 to 3), you will find on Institut Esthederm products for UV protection. This innovative approach was developed in response to findings that high protection factors (SPF 50+ or SPF 100) give us a false sense of security, leading us to believe we can sunbathe all day without worry. Two suns indicate “moderate protection” and three suns indicate “high protection.” Institut Esthederm offers products that both protect and promote the much-desired “tanned” complexion (for example, the popular Skin and Hair Sun Protection Oil that enhances tanning).
REEF SAFE – since it was discovered that certain filters contribute to the death of coral reefs in the oceans, many brands are trying to eliminate such filters and replace them with safer alternatives.
READING LABELS ON EXAMPLES
MALIN+GOETZ SPF30 SUNSCREEN is an American product, and therefore, in addition to the SPF 30 label, it also has the “broad spectrum” label, meaning it provides UVA protection as well. It contains mineral filters, and micronized zinc oxide using special MicroSperse technology, giving it a light texture without a white cast. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps brighten the skin and protect against environmental pollution. Vitamin E and other antioxidants protect against oxidative stress caused by UV rays. It is waterproof and suitable for sensitive skin. Safe for the planet (“reef safe”).
DARPHIN SOLEIL PLAISIR SPF50 sunscreen. This French brand has a UVA label in a circle, indicating adequate protection against UVA rays. With SPF 50, this means UVA protection of 16 or more, which is the maximum. It contains chemical filters, a luxurious texture, and a blend of precious oils (shea oil) and hyaluronic acid for hydration. Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant. It is waterproof, non-greasy, and non-sticky. The formula is paraben-free, non-comedogenic, and dermatologically tested. Apply evenly 15 minutes before sun exposure.
EMBRYOLISSE LAIT-CREME MULTI-PROTECTION SPF20 PA+++ – this iconic French brand has double-labeled its UVA protection, with the letters UVA in a circle and the PA+++ label – probably to be understandable to customers in various parts of the world who love this brand. The UVA protection here is higher than regulations require (with SPF 20, it only needed to have PA++). The reason? This is a cream for daily use, and UVA rays are present even in winter. It also protects against blue light (from screens) and daily pollution.
