Here are the most common questions and answers about using retinol.
Retinol is a powerful anti-aging ingredient, as long as you know how to use it.
Is retinol banned in Europe?
No. New regulations regarding the concentrations of certain cosmetic ingredients are being introduced next year in EU member states, limiting the use of retinol to 0.3% in facial products or 0.05% for body products. These limits aim to maintain a safe overall intake of vitamin A from food, supplements, or skin. Since we are not an EU member, stronger retinol will still be available.
Am I too young for retinol?
Dermatologists can recommend retinol and other vitamin A derivatives (retinoids, including tretinoin) even in the teenage years for acne treatment. If you want preventive anti-aging care, you can start using products with lower concentrations of retinol or milder retinoids in your mid-twenties.
Recommendation: The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid.
What concentration should I start with?
If you’ve never used retinol before, begin with concentrations of 0.1 – 0.2% and apply it only three times a week, gradually moving to daily use. Initial irritation, such as redness and peeling, may occur but will subside as your skin adapts.
Recommended for beginners: The Ordinary Retinol in Squalane 0.2%.
Can I use retinol around the eye area?
Yes. Many eye creams contain retinol due to its beneficial effects on collagen, helping to reduce fine lines around the delicate eye area over time. Some facial products are noted to be safe for the eye area as well.
Recommendation: Darphin Ideal Resource Youth Retinol Oil – for face and eye area, with 0.3% retinol in capsules that protect this sensitive ingredient.
Can retinol be used during the day?
Yes. Retinol does not create harmful reactions with sun exposure (phototoxicity) as often thought. The concern is that retinol is sensitive to light (photostability) and can degrade more quickly in sunlight. You don’t have to forgo retinol during the day, but use it with SPF.
Recommendation: Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol Cream – for day and night, containing 0.3% retinol.
Can retinol and vitamin C be used in the same skincare routine?
Yes, but not in the same step. This means using retinol in the evening and vitamin C in the morning. Avoid applying them simultaneously, as this can increase irritation and reduce their effectiveness due to different pH levels.
Recommendation: Institut Esthederm retinol serum in the evening, and Institut Esthederm Vitamin C cream in the morning.
What ingredients should I avoid combining with retinol?
At the beginning of retinol use, avoid all potential irritants, including various acids. Acids can only be introduced later and not in the same routine step as retinol, as they can neutralize its effects and cause irritation.
What ingredients work well with retinol?
Since retinol can dry the skin, it pairs well with hydrating ingredients (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) or those that protect the skin's natural barrier (plant oils and waxes, ceramides, squalane). It’s best to combine retinol with a moisturizer suitable for your skin type.
Recommendation: Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentre.
How should I use higher concentrations of retinol, 0.5% to 1%?
Start with lower concentrations and gradually increase to 0.5% or 1%. Initial use of stronger retinol may cause irritation, which can be mitigated by applying a hydrating cream over the retinol product. Always apply retinol on clean, dry skin, wait about 20 minutes, then apply a hydrating cream. The Ordinary retinol is already in squalane, which helps prevent dryness.
Recommendation: The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane.
Can bakuchiol replace retinol?
Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative to retinol, known as "phyto-retinol," as it works similarly but without irritating. It’s recommended for those with sensitive or dry skin. Studies show that at a concentration of 0.5%, bakuchiol can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and enlarged pores while evening out skin tone. It can also be used during sunny days because it is photostable.
Recommendation: VENN Collagen Intensive Phyto-retinol Resurfacing Mask with 0.5% bakuchiol and two types of collagen.
