Delina, Bois Imperial, Tuberose Astrale...
I was literally born in a cloud of Shalimar, said Quentin Bisch in 2012, at the very start of his career, in an interview for the Persolaise blog. It was his mother’s favorite fragrance, and she even brought a bottle to the hospital for his birth. This anecdotal detail perfectly suits a perfumer who has long been creating nothing but bestsellers… Are these truly the best women’s and men’s perfumes, or just the most interesting? What is it that Bisch does differently from others?
This year belongs to Quentin Bisch, say perfume connoisseurs – for years now. And Bisch? Bisch sings. He uses the acoustics of the halls near his lab to let his voice out. Why not? His perfumes have dominated the fragrance scene for several years, and at one point he was told he would never become a perfumer…
From Dance to Perfume
Bisch has been fascinated by perfumes since childhood. It’s unclear whether this love came from his parents, who wore famous and strong perfumes of their time, but Bisch remembers that at age 11 he was captivated by a fragrance that swept through the classroom when his French teacher entered. The surprise turned into an obsession – she refused to tell him the perfume’s name. Eventually, he explored scents in a perfumery and discovered it: it was Opium.
I remember she smoked, and the papers she gave us smelled of a magical mix of perfume and tobacco smoke… recalls Bisch, who even then thought, I could be the one to create such perfumes!
In his youth, when choosing a career, the elite perfumery school ISIPCA told him he could not become a perfumer - because he had not previously mastered chemistry, which is required for perfumers. He tried chemistry. It didn’t work out. He was stronger in imagination and creativity. So he found his creative outlet in music, dance, and theater. However, the scents didn’t leave him alone, so when the opportunity arose, he exchanged the position of artistic troupe director for that of an apprentice perfumer. Perfume giant Givaudan accepted his application to the perfumery school – but on the condition that he first complete a year of practice at the prestigious Robertet laboratory in Grasse.
And that’s how it all started. His first perfume, La Fin du Monde, was signed in 2013 for Etat Libre d’Orange. For a perfumer whose first work was an olfactory vision of the apocalypse, only successes followed, including cult perfumes for renowned global niche and designer brands. In both worlds, he sought - and, through his famous persistence, gained – creative freedom, which allowed him to develop a personal style marked by bold combinations, innovative and strong synthetic accords, contrasts, and sensuality. This style is now so recognizable that perfume blogs use terms like Bisch-like or Bisch-ness.
Here are some Bisch-signed perfumes available at Metropoliten perfumeries:
Ex Nihilo – Fleur Narcotique (2015) – Luxurious Women’s Perfume With An Irresistible Aura
Fleur Narcotique is one of the bestsellers of the elegant and luxurious Parisian brand Ex Nihilo, which sought a typically Parisian, chic yet elegant perfume tone. Bisch used unusual synthetic materials – employing the patented Petalia accord, a strong aura and long-lasting note from Givaudan, with soft rose and peony scents plus a touch of grapefruit. Petalia, used generously, created a true fragrance bomb within the perfume composition. Totally Bisch-like.
Parfums De Marly – Delina (2017) – A Garden Of 1000 Roses, From Dawn To Dusk
Delina (2017), another Bisch bestseller, combines Turkish rose with the synthetic molecule Petalia to create a unique, fresh, and modern women’s perfume. The accord transformed the composition into a floral-fruity aria - as if rose petals were scattered over a basket of berries. Delina achieved instant success, creating a line of three perfumes representing one day in a garden with 1000 blooming roses: Delina la Rosée is a morning walk through a quiet garden, with a light, fresh, and airy scent; the original Delina is the garden in full bloom at midday; Delina Exclusif is a sensual and decadent gourmand rose with oud, in a warm summer evening.
Essential Parfums – Bois Imperial (2020) – Iconic Men’s Perfume Loved By Women Too
Bois Imperial, a bestseller from Essential Parfums, leads into the mystical heart of a forest, where the sounds of the woods intensify, the scent of the earth is close, trees murmur their ancient conversation, and sounds of unknown animals give city dwellers goosebumps. The perfume is based on the Akigalawood note – a patented molecule by Givaudan, which has become this perfumer’s signature. It is obtained by laboratory extraction of fragrance layers from patchouli, with dominant notes of wood, pepper, and vetiver. Akigalawood provides powerful projection – a base note according to Quentin Bisch.
Through Bois Imperial, I was practically creating a metaphor for Indonesia, the origin country of this ingredient, says the perfumer, and if I had to describe the perfume in three words, it would be: sensual, woody, and fresh.
A lover of exclusive ingredients in large quantities, Bisch added to Bois Imperial, along with abundant Akigalawood, Georgywood – a synthetic woody scent with green and sweet undertones, plus Thai basil with hints of anise, timut pepper with an anise note… Bisch loves these nuanced notes as well as exploring relationships between synthetic and natural ingredients.
Amouage – Guidance (2023) – Luxurious Women’s Perfume, Delicate And Powerful At The Same Time
The cult trio of Amouage ingredients: rose, frankincense, and grey amber (ambergris). In Guidance, the perfume smells like a hug, like reading poetry, whispering messages of wisdom, says the brand, while public delight confirms the complexity and strength of the scent. It’s easy to guess that Akigalawood will also appear in the base notes, while the unusual combination of pear, frankincense, and hazelnut opens the perfume. Rose, jasmine, and osmanthus add femininity. The perfume is part of the Odyssey collection, conceived as an olfactory journey through the wild, untouched landscapes of the Oman sultanate, and within a few years of launch, it has already won several fragrance awards.
Maison Crivelli – Tubereuse Astrale (2024) – Luxurious Women’s Perfume Full Of Magic
The Milky Way is sprinkled with tuberose petals. Comets leave a long trail of cinnamon color. This is the vision behind this perfume, which floats on the skin: sparkling tuberose combined with a velvety soft leather accord. Tuberose is a magical flower of perfumery, with a strong sensual aura that gives perfumers headaches. Tuberose has many facets, each with its own magic - Tubereuse Astrale selects an enchanting and pampered tuberose, layered with butter cream on a base of leather notes.
