What is the purpose of scents in cosmetics?
Do you also have that automatic movement to first bring the cream close to your nose? Even when the packaging clearly says "fragrance free"?
Scents are almost inseparable from cosmetics, serving for aromatherapy and more: important active ingredients. Even dermatocosmetics or medical cosmetics often have very pleasant scents, including "hypoallergenic fragrances."
So why have scents in cosmetics gained a bad reputation, leading many to avoid even the "f" in "fragrance" in the ingredients list? The topic is too extensive for a short blog post, but we will attempt to provide an explanation in a few main points.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF SCENTS IN COSMETICS?
Scents evoke pleasant emotions and enhance enjoyment of cosmetics. They contribute to the pleasure we feel during use, sometimes more than texture and the feeling on the skin. Secondly, added scents mask unpleasant ones that may come from various ingredients, whether synthetic, chemical processes, or natural. To make creams with such ingredients pleasant for most people to use, scents are added. Thirdly, essential oils can have antimicrobial effects, acting as preservatives. And fourthly, in aromatherapy products, essential oils are active substances.
WHAT ARE ESSENTIAL (AROMATIC) OILS USED FOR AND WHAT ARE THEY ACCUSED OF?
Among both natural and synthetic substances, some can be irritants or potentially harmful, and scents are no exception. Most often, however, scents derived from essential (aromatic) oils are "called out." Essential oils are complex, composed of hundreds of low molecular weight molecules that enable easier penetration into the skin – thus increasing their irritant potential. Some are known to trigger allergic reactions in susceptible individuals. It's estimated that about 5% of people are prone to allergies from fragrant substances. Some essential oils, particularly those from citrus fruits, can cause harmful skin reactions and leave stains when exposed to sunlight, hence they are used only in night care. Of course, there are those that are proven safe. Brands apply essential oils as fragrances carefully and have experts overseeing this.
DARPHIN is a French brand that uses essential oils in its AROMATIC SERUMS for night care. Darphin states that besides affecting emotional-cognitive states like aiding sleep, boosting energy levels, or pleasure, they help strengthen the skin's natural defenses by balancing it microbiologically, and their easy skin penetration can aid the action of other ingredients.
Darphin's essential oils – especially those used in daily care – do not contain all the molecules found in nature. To ensure their safe use during sun exposure, Darphin has modified some through fractional distillation, removing components that cause photosensitivity effects. Finally, Darphin adheres to European regulations in this area, primarily the recommendations of IFRA (International Fragrance Association).
ARE SCENTS SUBJECT TO LEGAL REGULATIONS?
Yes, European regulations specify scents permitted in food and cosmetics.
IFRA, as mentioned earlier – the International Fragrance Association – governs this area based on scientific findings from the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials - RFIM.
All European brands adhere to these regulations, but much more challenging than cosmetic manufacturers are creators and perfume lovers who complain that the IFRA list of "undesirable" substances is growing longer, including fragrant substances that can cause allergies in a very small percentage of people. Therefore, if you are unsure about the safety of your scented cosmetics, look for a reputable brand that follows regulations.
"FRAGRANCE FREE," YES OR NO?
If you've noticed that unscented cosmetics suit you better, if you have skin prone to irritation or allergies, perhaps fragrance-free cosmetics are the right choice for you. Major brands that offer skincare lines for different skin conditions and needs always have a line for sensitive skin, without added scents. But sometimes with "hypoallergenic" fragrance. Yes, it's possible to create a scent that is safe even for people prone to allergic reactions. In short, the choice is yours.
