Workshop by Metropoliten
A perfume workshop held by Metropoliten at the Bristol Hotel brought together a small circle of fragrance enthusiasts, once again proving that niche perfumes can evoke memories, emotions, and even bring a smile - or a tear.
Metropoliten has always seen perfume as a medium that intertwines with other forms of art and nearly every aspect of life-from food to memory. From the event Scented Flavors – Flavored Scents in 2014, where Metropoliten paired specially crafted dishes with gourmand perfumes, to collaborations with local designers, and last year’s large-scale Sensory Exhibition, which wove perfume together with memory, emotion, music, movement, and travel - Metropoliten continuously highlights the irreplaceable role scent plays in our lives. This new workshop at the Bristol Hotel was no exception.
WHAT LANGUAGE DOES A SCENT SPEAK TO YOU?
In the workshop’s introduction, Filip Sovrlić, training manager at Metropoliten Perfumery, spoke about the rise of the niche perfume movement and its unique characteristics.
He emphasized the pioneering role of brands like L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme des Garçons, and Frédéric Malle, describing their reliance on imaginative inspiration, the creative freedom given to perfumers, daring ingredient combinations and concentrations, and other defining traits of niche perfumery.
Guests at this exclusive workshop had the opportunity to test perfumes that either revolutionized the perfume world or gained cult status over time, such as:
- Le Labo Santal 33, inspired by the American Wild West and vintage Marlboro cigarette ads.
- Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 & 02, created by Geza Schoen in 2005, launching a revolution with perfumes built around a single synthetic molecule in high concentration.
- Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady, a masterpiece by Dominique Ropion, featuring bold doses of rose and patchouli.
- Diptyque Philosykos, one of the first fig-based perfumes, crafted by Olivia Giacobetti (along with Premier Figuier for L’Artisan Parfumeur).
ART VS. MARKET — A DEBATE
The second part of the workshop featured a debate designed and led by Anastasia Privalova, former editor at Fragrantica, a journalist who channels her passion for fragrance through writing, lectures, workshops, and her own Instagram profile @Eudemoi.
The topic was timely: the shift of certain niche brands toward broader markets and more commercial concepts.
According to Anastasia, the niche sector brought variety, freedom, and experimentation to perfume themes - previously dominated by standardized and commercial accords like fougère, fruity - floral, woody - musk, and gourmand scents.
Still, she noted the commercial success of some niche brands - such as Baccarat Rouge — as well as how mainstream brands are now exploring more intriguing mineral-salty accords (e.g., Olympea by Paco Rabanne). These overlaps blur the line between the two worlds of perfumery.
STORYTELLING — WHAT DO PERFUMES WANT TO TELL US?
Anastasia continued her talk by addressing the language of perfume marketing. Today, more than ever, perfumes tell their stories not only through scent but also through bottles, packaging design, and even words.
Can we conclude that only a harmonious and sincere connection between the story marketed with the perfume—and the personality of the liquid inside - builds trust among true fragrance lovers?
Ultimately, Anastasia believes, perfume is more than just scent - it is an evocation of emotion and memory.
Naturally, the next step of the workshop was to open the topic further to the audience: What are perfumes really telling us - about ourselves, our memories, childhood, and sentiment?
SCENTING PERFUMES: A MASTERCLASS
Filip Sovrlić then presented several niche perfumes, highlighting their inspiration and key ingredients. He also invited the audience to experience isolated raw materials to help them better recognize notes in the perfumes and understand the complexity of fragrance creation.
Perhaps the most engaging - or at least the most emotional—part was when the audience was asked:
What is your favorite scent from childhood?
Which personal story would you want to translate into a perfume?
Filip attempted to match their answers with existing perfumes, and in some cases, the matches were so precise that they stirred deep emotions.
One standout was a memory of a childhood garden, matched with the lilac scented En Passant by Frédéric Malle, created by Olivia Giacobetti.
